December 22, 2023

Istanbul's Hidden Gem: A Day in Balat

blue and brown concrete building

Balat is one of the oldest and most enchanting areas of Istanbul. The moment you step onto its narrow, cobblestone streets and behold its historic buildings, you'll feel an atmosphere unlike any other place in Istanbul, or indeed in the world.

The area is truly a little hidden gem, nestled behind the Eminönü waterfront along the Golden Horn. It's very close to the metro station along the Golden Horn (referred to as "Haliç" in Turkish) and easily accessible by foot. The coastal road along the Golden Horn is incredibly pleasant, with sprawling gardens along the way and families strolling along the waterfront all the way to Pierre Loti at the end of the Golden Horn.

However, once you step foot inside Balat, all of that disappears as you enter the old Istanbul. Let's go explore it!

One of the most distinctive features of Balat is perhaps the colorful houses lining its sloping, paved streets. Most of these houses date back over 50 years, with some even reaching 200 years in age. These historic wooden houses are among the most photographed buildings in the city by tourists. Due to their popularity, many of these streets now host cafes and restaurants where you can stop by and enjoy the view.

Or if you feel like taking a break (remember, most of these streets are somewhat sloped!), just sit on the steps of these houses where people have literally been resting for centuries!

Diverse History of Balat

The neighborhood itself is incredibly welcoming, having been home to many families for generations. You'll encounter very friendly locals who are more than happy to engage in conversation and inquire about your background. And as you'll see… many of the residents themselves have incredibly diverse backgrounds!

Balat has traditionally been a neighborhood home to minorities in the city, where many Jewish and Greek Orthodox families chose to make their residence. The grand Greek school, "Fener Rum Lisesi," still stands here and can be seen from various corners throughout the neighborhood. Along the coast, there is a Bulgarian church, ironworks made in Vienna, and a bell tower gifted from Russia.

You'll come across numerous churches and even synagogues in the neighborhood – like the Yanbol Synagogue, built by Bulgarian immigrants. The population reflects this diversity with many famous Turks who have lived here, in addition to princes of Moldavia and Wallachia, and other notable figures. The Fethiye Camii (Mosque) is one of the most distinctive churches in the world. It was built during the Ottoman period and was originally a monastery that Sultan Selim the First visited after conquering Egypt.

In summary, this neighborhood is one of the most diverse in the city, with its historic buildings and inhabitants giving you that sense from the very first moment you pass through it.

Finally, the neighborhood's diversity influences the available food options, and the cafes and restaurants here are truly amazing. It's the kind of neighborhood where you can't really go wrong – where you turn a corner and pass by one of the oldest cafes in the city, then turn another corner and find the oldest tavern in town, a type of traditional place for dinner.

The markets along the winding, cobblestone streets are renowned throughout the city for selling traditional goods and fresh produce, and the neighborhood's atmosphere alone is worth the stroll through the markets. You won't find any major brand names in Balat, but you'll discover things you won't find anywhere else in the world.

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